Seven o'clock Wednesday morning in Varanasi. Noon in Varanasi. Three o'clock Thursday afternoon in Varanasi. Midnight in Varanasi. They seem to be everywhere, round the clock — a bunch of people, in twos and threes and fours, wearing uniform white caps, divvying up the tasks of waving either dusty-white flags or brownish brooms, atop the sunbaked dividers of the city roads. They are volunteers of the Aam Aadmi Party (AAP), impervious to time and the sun that has everyone else scurrying for shade or going into hiding.

In Varanasi in the week gone by, it was difficult to wander 20 metres without encountering an AAP volunteer — distributing pamphlets, chanting slogans, showcasing the party symbol (broom) and talking to voters. If the sun and long hours are a test of the will, AAP has passed with flying colours in Varanasi.

The sea of white caps foretells a rousing climax to the biggest electoral show on earth as Varanasi goes to the polls on Monday — thanks to a dogged fight between BJP's choice for prime minister, Narendra Modi, and Arvind Kejriwal, the protagonist of AAP and former chief minister of Delhi.


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