How to do drops on a trials bike - MTB Trials for beginners
- 6 years ago
In the last video in our mountain bike trials series, we learned some different ways to get on to stuff. Today we'll be learning how to get down off those obstacles.
Some drops are actually just really steep hills that you can just dive into and pull out of, but we're not talking about those. Today we’ll be learning to do sheer drops.
You can do a drop from a standstill, riding fast, or riding slow, but in all cases you want to do anything but a nosedive. This means landing with both wheels simultaneously, or landing rear wheel first. It seems like the slower you're moving the better the case for the rear wheel. When moving fast, landing level will help you regain control of the bike quickly.
To drop to your rear wheel, you'll want to get your bike on to the back wheel as you’re dropping. Doing a pedal kick is a great way to transition into this position when riding slow.
In a low gear, give your bike a quick and deliberate crank while pulling your bars to your waist. This will pop the front wheel off the ground and propel you away from the drop. Since your arms will be bent, you can use them like a spring to cushion your landing. Your back wheel will contact the ground first, and then you can apply some resistance to the bars as your front wheel descends.
Landing with both wheels is slightly different. Since a pedal kick may not be possible at high speeds, shift your weight to the back of your bike just enough to keep from nose diving. In the air you can make adjustments. By pushing or pulling on your bars you can adjust the pitch of your bike. By coordinating your legs and feet you can move the bike even more.
Drops can be done with front suspension, full suspension, or no suspension, but the concept is still the same. I do find that suspension makes a drop much easier when you're dealing with uneven terrain. The impact is less violent and it's easier to stick your landing. If you're riding street though, a fully rigid gives you the precision you need to land in an exact spot.
I’d also caution you to keep your tire pressure a little higher than usual to avoid a pinch flat. This is especially important when you’re riding street. If you’re riding tubeless you won’t get a pinch flat, but you could still wreck your wheel. So go about 10 to 15 PSI higher than you would on the trails.
In the next trials video, we'll be using the techniques we learned to get creative and ride some street. Thanks for riding with me today and I'll see you next time.
Some drops are actually just really steep hills that you can just dive into and pull out of, but we're not talking about those. Today we’ll be learning to do sheer drops.
You can do a drop from a standstill, riding fast, or riding slow, but in all cases you want to do anything but a nosedive. This means landing with both wheels simultaneously, or landing rear wheel first. It seems like the slower you're moving the better the case for the rear wheel. When moving fast, landing level will help you regain control of the bike quickly.
To drop to your rear wheel, you'll want to get your bike on to the back wheel as you’re dropping. Doing a pedal kick is a great way to transition into this position when riding slow.
In a low gear, give your bike a quick and deliberate crank while pulling your bars to your waist. This will pop the front wheel off the ground and propel you away from the drop. Since your arms will be bent, you can use them like a spring to cushion your landing. Your back wheel will contact the ground first, and then you can apply some resistance to the bars as your front wheel descends.
Landing with both wheels is slightly different. Since a pedal kick may not be possible at high speeds, shift your weight to the back of your bike just enough to keep from nose diving. In the air you can make adjustments. By pushing or pulling on your bars you can adjust the pitch of your bike. By coordinating your legs and feet you can move the bike even more.
Drops can be done with front suspension, full suspension, or no suspension, but the concept is still the same. I do find that suspension makes a drop much easier when you're dealing with uneven terrain. The impact is less violent and it's easier to stick your landing. If you're riding street though, a fully rigid gives you the precision you need to land in an exact spot.
I’d also caution you to keep your tire pressure a little higher than usual to avoid a pinch flat. This is especially important when you’re riding street. If you’re riding tubeless you won’t get a pinch flat, but you could still wreck your wheel. So go about 10 to 15 PSI higher than you would on the trails.
In the next trials video, we'll be using the techniques we learned to get creative and ride some street. Thanks for riding with me today and I'll see you next time.