In the water, watching the waves closely, you have to watch a series to be able to see how they break. Knowing how to correctly take your position in the water is an essential step in learning to surf and is too often badly taught by teachers.
The duration of a single ride on a wave is often less than 10 seconds. Between waiting for waves in the water and compete with other surfers, the time surfers stand up on their board will hardly exceed the minute of an hour session.
Meanwhile the waves do not stand still. Keep moving to keep your body active and avoid catching a cold. Stay informed, choose a slightly softer wave if this appears to work better for your moves.
To get started and practise your technique you have to start with smaller waves.